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Here you will find answers to many of the questions that we receive on a daily basis. Have a particular question? Share it with us and we will do our best to get you an answer. We have also included tips and any other information that we think will be helpful or useful in some way. Go ahead, enjoy . . .
Motoring Care Tips |
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#1 WASH YOUR RIDE WEEKLY |
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Washing your ride weekly will have the greatest impact on prolonging its’ exterior life. A dirty vehicle will hold moisture and contaminants easier and longer than a clean vehicle.
Here in the Snow Belt, the most critical time to wash a car is in the spring. The majority of the rust on your vehicle will occur during this time of the year, particularly due to all of the salt and chemicals that have accumulated on and underneath your car over the winter.
In order for rust to form, there must be a combination of air and moisture. In cold weather, water is frozen and cannot do much damage. The most critical temperature for rust formation is from 32°F to 40°F. At 32°F and below, water is solid and will not react with the air. When the temperature is 40°F and above, the water and salt solution will begin to evaporate and interact with the air. For the corrosive nature of the salt to become reactivated, all that is needed is moisture, any moisture; even high humidity will do the trick.
If you live in a dusty area, the constant deposit of dust on your vehicles’ finish acts as a mild abrasive and also forms a rough surface for other contaminants to cling to.
Your only protection to all of these “horrors” is frequent washings, being sure to spray underneath, in the wheel wheels and behind any moldings. A vehicle that is kept free of contaminants through weekly washings will have a body and paint finish that will last for many years to come.
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#2 USE THE PROPER TOOLS FOR WASHING |
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When you wash your favorite ride, be sure to use the correct tool for proper cleaning and to avoid inflicting any damage to the finish.
Ok, what does that mean, you ask? Well, believe it or not the same “tools” that you use to wash your dishes or clean your own body in the shower are not very well suited for cleaning your ride. Why not you ask? Two big differences — our dishes and our body are not waxed and we don’t mind so much if we get small scratches in our dishes and our skin won’t scratch from washing. Make sense?
That said, the very first tool to think of is soap. Only use a soap that is made specifically for hand washing vehicles. Do not use dishwashing detergent. It is too strong and will strip the wax off of your ride.
Next, choose your dirt removal tool. Your best choices are either a sheepskin’s mitt, a boar’s hair brush or a deep sea wool sea sponge. Do not use any other type of sponge, rag or towel. They do not have the depth and porosity to keep dirt away from your rides’ finish as you are washing. The dirt particles have no place to go and are trapped between the rag or sponge and the finish of your ride. Even with running water many of the dirt particles will still become trapped. Therefore, as they are rubbed over the finish, the trapped abrasive particles will grate against it and inflict hundreds of small scratches. Not good . . .
The items I mentioned to use will trap most of the dirt particles and bury them deep into their thick nap, bristles or pores in a manner that will help to keep the dirt away from your car's finish. In addition, the vehicle wash soap will act as a lubricant in the area between the vehicle’s finish and the washing tool. On the back page, we’ll discuss the deep sea wool sea sponge in more detail.
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#3 CLEAN THE PAINT BEFORE WAXING |
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Clean the paint? When I wax, doesn’t the wax clean the paint as I am putting it on? In a word — no. Unless you are using a one step cleaner & wax product, waxes and sealants are for protection, not cleaning.
Now, I’ll bet some of you are saying — ”Exactly what does this mean, cleaning the paint? Isn’t washing the car good enough?” Well, washing the car is a good thing, but it is only the first step. By washing, you are getting off the obvious dirt and dust that the vehicle has collected. But, you are not getting off surface contaminations that are still clinging to the paint. These include things like rail dust, acid rain residue, brake dust residue, stubborn road grime, etc. In fact, the next time you wash your car, run your hand over the finish and you may feel some amount of the grittiness caused by these contaminants.
You may also be asking “Why should the paint be cleaned before waxing?” Basically, the cleaner the surface, the longer the wax or sealant will last. If it has a clean, pure sub-surface to cling to, it will help its longevity. Cleaning the paint also removes the old wax. These days, many of the waxes are not very compatible with each other. This means that if you apply one kind or type of wax over a different kind, you may not get the gloss and protection that you expected.
There are several ways to clean the paint. You can use a precleaning lotion which will leave the paint literally squeaky clean. This is a very mild polish that will remove the surface contaminants as well as very minor surface imperfections and swirls. Or, if you only want to clean the paint and remove the surface contaminants and don’t have problems with other imperfections, then using a clay bar and lubricant will work great.
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#4 REMOVE LEAVES, BIRD DROPPINGS & TREE SAP AS SOON AS POSSIBLE |
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Always remove leaves, bird droppings and tree sap from your ride's finish as soon as possible. All of these can blemish your vehicle’s finish if allowed to remain on the surface too long.
If wet leaves are left on the vehicle’s finish its’ paint can become damaged by the environmental chemicals and other residues that may be residing on them. The leaves hold these chemicals directly against the finish and the moisture helps to activate these chemicals and other residue. Leaves are the easiest to remove as you simply pick them off.
Bird droppings contain acid and some have strong purple and red dyes in them from the berries that they eat. If you do not remove them, they will react with your vehicle's finish and cause a caustic etching action on the paint. Generally by gently wiping the area with a soft cloth soaked in water, or using a little “Quick Detail” is all that is needed to remove bird droppings. If the dropping is dried out, you may have to soak it first to soften it up. Do not try scraping it off as you run the risk of scratching your paint.
Tree sap can be a bit tougher to remove as it is sticky and will harden in sunlight. To remove sap, try the following -
- Move the car into a shaded area and let the finish cool.
- Wash the area and let it dry.
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Dab on a small amount of an automotive paste wax and let it sit, but do not let it dry.
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While still moist, buff off the paste wax.
If this does not work, apply a commercial bug and tar remover or use a mild polishing compound. This will also remove the wax so be sure to reapply a good quality wax.
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#5 TOWEL CARE TIPS |
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Before use:
- Wash colors separately as colors can bleed.
- Do not use any bleach or fabric softener.
- Wash with one cup of distilled white vinegar and an appropriate amount of your laundry detergent. This will release the lint and break the towels in by dissolving any oils or treatments in the fabric that inhibit absorbency and keep them fresh.
- Machine dry. This helps to remove lint from the towel.
After the first use:
- Continue to wash each color and type of towel separately. Wash drying towels together and chemical towels together. This way they won't cross contaminate each other.
- Wash dressing towels and pads separate from wax towels and pads. The chemicals used in dressings can migrate into the wax towels and pads and cause streaks and swirls on future wax applications.
- Every 5th washing, wash in warm water with 1 cup of distilled white vinegar. This will keep them fresh and will remove wax or chemicals from deep within the fibers that soap alone cannot remove.
- Do not use any bleach or fabric softener.
- Wash and rinse in warm water. Add an extra rinse cycle if your washer has a setting for it.
- Allow the towels to dry thoroughly. Dampness will shorten their life.
For Microfiber towels, in addition to the above:
- Microfiber towels actually scrape the dirt or wax from the surface of the vehicle and then store the particles or liquid in the towel until it is washed. Microfiber can be used wet or dry. When using Microfiber wet, it is very important to wring the towel as dry as possible. If the Microfiber towel becomes too dirty, it will begin to streak.
- Wash Microfiber towels separately from other towels or clothes. The fibers are very "grabby" and will treat the lint generated by other fabrics like dirt and store the tiny particles within the microfibers. This will clog them up and greatly reduce their effectiveness.
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#6 TAKE CARE OF YOUR FABRIC & CARPETING |
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One of the often overlooked aspects of taking care of your ride is the fabric, upholstery and carpeting. Here are some tips to help you get the most out of them.
Vacuum Weekly. We bring a lot of dirt and grit into our rides everyday. The grit works its way down to the base of the fibers and literally grinds on them as we step or sit on the fibers. This grinding cuts the fibers and slowly over time, more and more of the fibers are cut out and lost.
Protect Carpeting With Floor Mats. The simple logic here is to put the wear and tear on the floor mats and not on the carpeting. It is much easier and less expensive to replace the floor mats than the carpeting. I prefer to use carpeted floor mats as they look better and absorb some of the moisture that is brought in on your feet.
Apply A High Quality Fabric Protectant. A quality fabric protectant forms a protective barrier against dirt, stains and spills. This is something that many people do not do as they think that this can only be done by a professional. Not true. You can easily apply a high quality, long lasting fabric protectant (hint: Rick’s Best Fabric Protectant) yourself. You want to use a protectant that has an excellent wicking action whereby the entire fiber is covered and not just the outer top surface of the fiber. Before applying, you will want to have the upholstery and carpeting thoroughly cleaned. As you apply, be sure to use a soft upholstery brush to gently work the protectant thoroughly into the fibers.
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#7 TAKE CARE OF YOUR ENGINE BAY |
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While cleaning and detailing an engine and engine bay is tedious work, it is very rewarding in not only looks and appearance, but in engine performance. A clean engine will run cooler with less dirt and grime on it to keep in the heat. Here are a few tips:
- When you are cleaning and detailing your engine, you want to be very careful in regards to protecting the air cleaner housing and engine electronics. Water and cleaners can enter the engine through the air cleaner housing as well as damage sensitive electronic equipment. You should cover the air cleaner and electronic items, including the battery and fuse box with a waterproof material before cleaning.
- Cleaners will be most effective on a warm engine. However, be careful of the temperature of the water that you are spraying into the engine bay. If you spray cold water on a hot engine, you can cause severe damage. If possible, use warm water, not too cold or too hot. The engine should be warm, but not too hot to the touch as it should have a chance to cool down from recent driving. Before applying any dressings, allow the engine to completely cool.
- When rinsing the engine, use a moderate amount of water pressure. Too high of a pressure will force water into places that you do not want it to go.
- When detailing, it is often worth it to take the time to mask off specific areas to protect them from having a product applied that you may be spraying. It takes less time to mask off areas than to clean them up later due to the tight places and numerous small nooks and crannies, many of which are impossible to get to by hand.
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#8 TAKE THE TIME TO CLEAN BEFORE APPLYING PRODUCTS |
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Ever been disappointed with the performance of a particular care product? Well, maybe it was applied over a dirty surface and therefore it was not able to perform as it was designed to do. I often notice people jumping directly to applying a product without taking the time to properly clean the surface. Before applying your favorite vinyl, leather or rubber dressing, or your favorite wax/sealant take the time to properly clean the surface.
Proper cleaning of the surface will allow the product to work to its maximum ability as it was designed to. You’ve taken the time and spent the money to purchase a good quality product and you expect to have it perform by protecting your ride and making it look nice. Don’t do just half the job by jumping straight in and applying the product without proper cleaning.
- Cleaning before applying a dressing or a protectant creates a surface that will not only look much better but also removes dirt, dust and grime that creates a surface film that would normally hinder the product from soaking into the surface for maximum looks and protection.
- Cleaning the paint with the proper precleaning lotion will not only allow your wax or sealant to create a great shine and depth but will also greatly help to increase its adhesion and therefore its life and length of time that it protects.
Next time invest the time to clean the surface and I’ll bet that you notice an improvement in the performance of the product.
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#9 TAKE CARE OF YOUR WHEELS |
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Wheels seem to be one of the more overlooked parts of our ride’s care. Here are tips to help you take better care of them:
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Keep them clean! Wheels gather up a great deal of dirt, grime and brake dust. Without at least a weekly cleaning, your wheels will become severely pitted. Much of the abuse comes from the accumulated brake dust which often has an acidic nature. Left unchecked, the brake dust will etch into the surface making for an expensive repair.
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Bare aluminum wheels are by far the most difficult to keep clean. The aluminum will oxidize very quickly from the elements. Depending upon the weather environment, clean the wheels with an aluminum polish, preferably in a thick liquid form, at least every 3 months. Follow-up with a good coat of wax or sealant to keep them from oxidizing.
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#10 TAKE CARE OF YOUR INTERIOR VINYL |
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Interior vinyl takes a lot of abuse and is often forgotten when it comes to car care. Most interior vinyl is found on the door panels and dash while some of our older cars have vinyl seats.
Besides the attack of the normal everyday dirt, grime and dust, vinyl is taken to extremes by the heat of the sun and the cold of the winters. The ultra violet rays from the sun attack the vinyl and cause the plasticizers to evaporate. These plasticizers are used in the manufacture of the vinyl to make it soft and flexible. Over time, they evaporate, due to the sun and heat, leaving the vinyl hard, brittle and cracked. That foggy film that you often get on the inside of your car's windows is partially caused by the plasticizers evaporating. So, it becomes very important to regularly apply a good quality protectant to keep the color of your vinyl from fading and to keep the plasticizers from evaporating so it will stay soft and not become hard and brittle.
Before you apply any type of protectant, clean the vinyl thoroughly. Our Rick's Best General Purpose Cleaner is great for this purpose. It will deep clean the vinyl and will not leave behind a film that could prevent the protectant from penetrating into the vinyl.
A poor quality protectant can actually age the vinyl due to harsh ingredients that are used where the goal is just simply to look nice with little regard given to the life of the vinyl. A high quality protectant is typically water based and does not use solvents. Our own product, Rick's Best Vinyl Dressing, is a very high quality protectant that is formulated to protect the vinyl and extend its' life in addition to keeping the color and softness. Its' non-greasy formula will dry completely to a nice satin finish that will also help to repel dust.
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#11 TAKE CARE OF YOUR PAINT IN-BETWEEN WASHINGS |
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It seems like you just washed your ride yesterday and already it is beginning to look like it is going to need another washing soon. Dust has gathered, maybe a bird dropping or two, a few bug splatters, some smudges on the paint, some light dirt splashed behind the wheels. Need I go on?
Well, good news! There are quick and easy ways to keep it looking good and even extend the times in-between washings.
California Duster - Use to pick up the dust off of your ride's finish. The secret to this duster is the paraffin wax that has been embedded into the soft cotton fibers. As you gently sweep the duster across the finish, the dust is attracted to and held by the wax. Use this duster, not by laying it on the finish and sweeping it around, but by holding the head of the duster up off of the finish a few inches and let the cotton 'fingers' dangle onto the finish as you move it across the surface.
Rick's Best Quick Detail - Our most popular product. Mist our Quick Detail on a lightly soiled finish to gently and safely remove bugs, bird droppings, smudges, dust, light dirt, etc. Leaves behind a beautiful shine. Wipe if off with a cotton or microfiber towel. I have even 'washed' my entire ride this way.
By taking a little extra care of your ride's paint finish in between washings, you will be extending the life and look of the finish. Leaving bugs and bird droppings on the finish will allow them time to etch into the paint. Even dust (basically, it's fine dirt and rock) left on to accumulate acts as an abrasive and contributes to micro abrasions.
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#12 USE AMSOIL SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS & FILTERS |
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This was an easy one. Truly save yourself some time and money by taking full advantage of AMSOIL's extended drain intervals. I have for over 26 years! It works! But don't just take our word for it, prove it to yourself and give it a try. Check AMSOIL out further in our 'Products' section by selecting the 'AMSOIL' logo or give us a call with any questions that you may have.
Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSO)
Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
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#13 CARING FOR YOUR WEATHERSTRIPPING |
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Taking care of your rides’ weatherstripping is very important. The weatherstripping keeps out the rain, snow and dust, helps to seal out outside noise and is essential for making the doors, hood and trunk fit properly. Without proper care, your weatherstripping will age, dry out and become hard and brittle. When this happens, you lose all of these benefits.
Your first step should always be to properly clean the weatherstripping. We recommend using our Rick’s Best General Purpose Cleaner for this task. Simply apply the cleaner to a clean towel or rag and wipe the weatherstripping down. Be sure to remember to clean the backside of the weatherstripping as well as into the folds and creases.
After you have cleaned it, you will want to apply a dressing that is specifically made for weatherstripping. Most often, the weatherstripping is not simply made out of rubber but consists of special materials designed for the task. You will find that often times a rubber dressing will not work as well on this type of “rubber”. Our choice is a new product that we just introduced for this task called Rick’s Best Weatherstrip Dressing. Our new dressing has been formulated specifically for the type of rubber found in weatherstripping. It will significantly slow down the aging process and help to keep it from becoming hard and brittle. Unlike many dressing, it will soak into this type of rubber and not leave a shiny, greasy surface film For those of you in cold climates, our dressing will also help to keep your doors from freezing shut to the weatherstripping.
One other note — it is also great for removing wax residue from the weather stripping as well as from hard plastic trim.
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#14 WASH OUT THE UNDERCARRIAGE, ENGINE COMPARTMENT & WHEEL WELLS |
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When we are out washing our rides, it’s easy to realize that we need to wash off all of the paint, the chrome, the plastic, the wheels, etc. But, some of the most neglected areas can be equally important. Take the time for the following:
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Flush out underneath with a good stream of running water. You’ll probably have to get down on your hands and knees and get wet, but flushing out the undercarriage will go a long way to making your ride last longer. You’ll be removing salt, sand, grime, dirt and who knows what else. All of these things hold moisture and will highly promote rust. Be sure to flush through the holes in the body frame rails, you’ll be amazed how much grit and sand comes flowing out.
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Now, take that same strong stream of water and flush out each of the wheel wells. Be sure to reach back in behind the tire to flush out the suspension system, top of the frame rails and all of the hoses and fittings back there.
- Finally, remember the engine compartment. I’m not talking about the engine itself, but around the edge of the engine compartment, especially in front. Spray down around the radiator, in and behind the grill, along the top of the frame rails (if visible), etc.
Now, don’t you feel better? By removing all of the extra grime, salt, sand and grit, your ride will last longer and look better . . .
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#15 CLEANING GLASS |
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Probably easily one of the most frustrating things about cleaning your ride can be cleaning the glass. Why is that? Could it be because the grime just seems to move around causing streaking? Is there a right way to clean glass? You bet!
Of course, start off with a great glass cleaner, such as one of our Rick’s Best Glass Cleaners. Next, grab several microfiber towels. We even have a “shaved” microfiber towel that is specifically designed for cleaning glass.
Now, after you have the proper products, it becomes all about the technique.
- On the outside, you can spray the cleaner directly on the glass, but, on the inside, spray the glass cleaner into the towel. This will avoid the cleaner mist from bouncing off of the glass and settling all over your interior surfaces.
- Now, the real secret - use one towel to initially wipe the glass to clean it, and then, use a second towel to finish up polishing the glass and removing any remaining glass cleaner.
Try this and see if you don’t begin to see much better results . . .
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